Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and the Final Countdown

Well, I have been Israel for most of a month now, and have settled in really well. I feel really comfortable here. The people are lovely and helpful, the mix of ethnicity is surprising and welcome, the sense of community is awesome. No more so than Friday afternoons. Before the sabbath, the areas around the markets becomes very active. Children everywhere. Street performers. Groups of old folk just putting chairs out in public places for a chat. The food is amazing here, and I am becoming less of a travel photographer, and more of a travel foodie. And the falafels… I just can’t even begin to describe how addictive they are. I would share photos, but I sometimes only remember when I am halfway through and thinking “this is amazing, I need to share”.

Jerusalem was a great experience.

It was not only interesting to see the amount of worshipers come to follow the stations of the cross and see the tomb, etc, but to walk around this ancient city and see the diversity it offers. We visited all of the quarters (Muslim, Christian and Jewish) which was very inspiring, and not as conflicted as I thought it would be. Ate another great falafel, of course. And pretty much absorbed the information that was provided to us.

While people know I am not a person of faith, I must admit that being in front of, delivering a note into and touching the Wailing Wall, the most sacred Jewish site, gave me chills, and something I can’t really explain well. It may have more to do with my heritage, and knowing people from my family may have been here, but many died without ever getting the chance.

Speaking of which; I also visited Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust Remembrance Centre; my other main reason for being in Israel (besides this tattoo). It was horrific, confronting and left me shaken. Knowing a lot of the history already, I had to avert my eyes often to keep myself in control. Even typing this I had to walk away from my keyboard, tears in my eyes. The feelings of anger, revulsion and sorrow hit not just me. I saw many people, especially older people, walking out crying. T he hardest part for me was the memorial for the children. Standing in that hall of light and hearing the names of over a million children being read out, their country of birth and their age completely broke me. And knowing my family were being read aloud at some point was crushing. Having said that, I believe everybody who has the opportunity to visit, should do so. I made a large (by my budget) anonymous cash donation. Anyone interested in learning more: https://www.yadvashem.org/

“For whoever listens to a witness, becomes a witness”

To somewhat lighter matters; I have become domesticated again. Cooking, cleaning and, best of all, using a washing machine (laundry mat). The joy, having not seen a washing machine since December, of not handwashing my clothes, is a beautiful and pure one. And actually getting to cook my own hamburgers, for those who know that part of my life, was awesome! Not as good as falafels, though.

My “tennis elbow” had gotten to the point I was losing mobility. I was sick of seeing doctors and specialists who said nothing works except rest and long term physio (which is hard to do when traveling). In two one hour sessions, a young, quiet, Thai guy gave me back my mobility and began the healing process. I have had a follow up session, and one more before I leave. His name is Tan, he was taught by his father and grandfather, and if you ever need any kind of massage in Tel Aviv, I would be more than happy to share his contact details. He is a magician and a healer.

It’s the final countdown (and yes, that earworm has been stuck in my head for a few days). I leave Israel on Monday. Seven days later, Sherwin will arrive and meet me in Nice. I miss him so badly, and I am so excited to share some time adventuring with the person I love the most in this world.

Also in the “good news” section of this blog, my cousin Mirjam and her husband will come and meet us in Heidelberg for a couple of days. I am really excited to see them both again, and look forward to them meeting Sherwin.

Cheers,

JC